In 2009, Hong Kong chef Mak Kwai Pui left his gig at Michelin-starred restaurant Lung King Heen to start dim sum global sensation Tim Ho Wan with Leung Fai Keung. Tracing the origin of this style is tricky, but there are some interesting theories. At Walnut Creek dim sum spot Creek House, the crackly buns emerge a pale gold, while at Ming’s Tasty in Oakland’s Chinatown, the crusty tops are a snowy white - and most of them are gone by noon. At Sifu Wong Kitchen in Sunnyvale, the filling leans more on sweetness. Still, it varies from place to place.Īt Peony Seafood Restaurant in Oakland, the buns’ brown filling tastes strongly of alliums. So it’s no surprise that many have adopted this style of baked barbecue pork bun in the last few years. While dim sum is often dictated by tradition, the Bay Area is a place of innovation. Once in the hot, dry oven, the texture becomes like a crumbly sugar cookie.ĭim Sum chef Wei Zheng Yu pipes the topping onto a batch of baked pork buns, which will crisp in the oven, at Dragon Beaux in San Francisco. The topping is mostly sugar and butter, usually piped with a piping bag or rolled out into a thin layer. At Dragon Beaux, the cooks stuff the ruby-colored, glazed barbecue pork into a golden dough. And regardless of whether the bun is steamed, baked or baked with a crunchy topping, the filling is the same: traditional char siu, generally seasoned with oyster sauce, soy sauce and sugar, among other things. While fluffy steamed char siu baos are most common in the Bay Area, baked pork buns have long been popular here as well. “We studied it … and started making it ourselves,” Chu says. Kevin Chu, general manager of the popular dim sum restaurant, said the team was inspired by Tim Ho Wan. This marvel probably didn’t arrive in the Bay Area until 2015 - KQED food editor Luke Tsai first spotted it at Dragon Beaux in San Francisco. When Soleil Ho and I steeped ourselves in the Bay Area’s dim sum scene to find the best, it quickly became my favorite dish.ĭim Sum chef Wei Zheng Yu wraps dough around a char siu filling while making crispy-topped barbecue pork baos at Dragon Beaux. Some simply call it a Tim Ho Wan-style bun, named after the Michelin-starred dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong. This style of baked char siu bao layered with a sweet, crisp topping - sort of like Hong Kong’s pineapple bun - is known by many names: baked barbecue bun, snow cap bun, snow mountain bun. The inside was sticky-sweet, salty and savory. When it landed on my table, I could still feel the heat radiating from the crumbly top. The dish seemed to take the best parts of a Mexican concha and a classic char siu bao - as if a sugar cookie had a kid with a baked empanada. It was an astonishing crispy-topped pork bun. I felt absolutely floored in a booth of a dim sum restaurant the other day. Cesar Hernandez/The Chronicle Show More Show Less Cesar Hernandez/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 4 of4Ĭrisp, baked pork buns from Creek House in Walnut Creek. Stephen Lam/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 3 of4Ĭrispy, baked barbecue pork buns from Ming's Tasty Restaurant in Oakland's Chinatown. Stephen Lam/The Chronicle Show More Show Less 2 of4Ĭhef Wei Zheng Yu rolls dough to make baked pork buns at Dragon Beaux. The dim sum restaurant first started making these buns in 2015. Baked barbecue pork baos are seen at Dragon Beaux in San Francisco.
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